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If you hold the bar about 45° to the log it will make shorter noodles that won't plug up the clutch cover and are a bit easier on the saw when cutting. For your sake, because you are going to do a lot of cross cutting also, i would stick with using a cross cut chain. I have an issue i need help with

I am sharpening the saw in the photo I have no issues noodling with a cross cut chain but i've n never tried it with a milling chain Rakers are set at.012 below the teeth

I am getting good noodles

A consistent stream of long, clean noodles signifies that your saw is properly sharpened, your chain tension is correct, and you’re applying the right pressure Conversely, fine dust or inconsistent chips suggest problems with your saw or cutting style. Larger crosscut saws, with more space between the teeth, work poorly on small branches Likewise, a small saw with small, closely spaced teeth doesn't work well on large trees or logs.

You will want to avoid cutting close to the ground as the volume of noodles will cause a clog if they can't get away easy I start with 1 or 3 cuts (depending on size) 2/3 of the way down. If—as is often the case with really worn saws—the file will not make contact toward the end of the saw, the end teeth are too long This can be corrected by jointing the ends more severely than the center of the saw.

When you get the cutting tooth moving parallel with the grain you will get an almost continuous length noodle and they clog easiest.

I don't think you will be getting noodles on crosscut If it's getting stuck, it could be the set, or the log is supported on both ends binding the blade. I believe that the spring back theory that is supposed to explain the need for shorter rakers is not correct The need for shorter rakers is fully explained by the physical motion of the saw and how it moves through the wood.

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