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I want to harden some small things with a lot of surface detail I forged a tiny, spade tipped, pry bar from 1/8 high carbon steel rod stock, pressed out the indentations holding the loose cap to the stick, and inspected the wood covered in an oily looking goop that was actually dry. Can you guess what i'm thinking of
I guess that avoiding decarb would be greated challenge to keeping the surface detail hard After pondering the information gleaned I have some of that grey goop you paint on before austenising to protect against.
I quench almost everything in a 10 year old batch of goddard's goop, which is an even mix of transmission fluid, lard, and paraffin wax
Sets up solid at room temperature, and i usually melt some down with a scrap bar, a trough or all of it depending on the piece, which gives me a nice hot oil bath for my blades. If you get a good goop in the inside, it will never come off Apparently they had glue like that in the bronze age It can get wet, but if you let it soak, it will come apart
The japanese use it for various sword parts (gluing on the kurikata and kojiri, sometimes also gluing on the fuchi and kashira) The japanese call it nikawa. It's made it waterproof using a goop recipe recommended to me (beeswax/boiled lineseed oil/gum turpentine) I happened to already have those ingredients
It has quite a potent smell it didn't change the appearance of the leather or the carvings, unlike an earlier test soaking leather in wax
You do not want to quench the handle tangs, so an edge quench in the goop with the handle tangs hanging down might work The goop helped me from spilling transmission fluid and /or other oils all over the place but that's as far as it goes I'll get a better edge quench without it I'll move through the sanding process with progressive grits as outlined.
Goes from solid to goop in a second and once melted gives off some nasty fumes It has it's place in the small metals world in my opinion Reserved for chasing or raising processes, but anyone who has filed it known it ruins files Just cut the stuff don't grind it!
Most of what is available is mixed with blo and has drying agents
You can still get raw tung, you just need to search it out So yeah, depends on what you are doing If i'm mixing up some handle goop for modern style knives i use blo If i am trying to keep a degree of authenticity, i might use the raw product.
Speaking from experience, you're not going to get a traditional polish with modern abrasives There's just something about tojiru goop, and fingerstones that does things that nothing else will My theory is that modern abrasives are too uniform and too hard to break down properly Also, don't forget to make or buy decent nugui
Dry iron oxide artist pigments make a.
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